Hi all…
musim vam napisat o treku na druhu naj horu Bolky Illimani…
i have to write u about Illimani the second highiest moutain in Bolivia…
v Titicaca a po vyhlade na macky ( Cordiliera) oproti som sa rozhodol, ze sa musim vratit do LaPazu a rozbit tam hory radsej ako MP….
After Titicaca lake and amezing view on Cordiliera moutains right opposite the Island of sole i decided to go back to LaPaz and destroy there myself or some valley rather like MP ( it is heritage …right?)
v buse som sa stretol so Steewom ( scotland falkt super krajina na bike and trek..doporucam ), kroty je nas kamos na cestach. Som mu vravel o plane, ze idem do Condoriri doliny a tam sa skrabat na 3 vrcholy..je to vlastne skola na climbing, na 5 dni a na konci je velmi technicky splh na Condory Cabeza okolo 5800mnm … kde sa strieda skala a lad a stupak je viac ako 70%…..
on the bus i meet my friend for a travel Steewe ( Scotland ..realy cool country for bike and hike..highly recomended ), which is our friend on roads. I told him about my plan to go to climbing school for 5 day to Condoriri valley, where i wd climb the 3 technical peaks. The last peak most technical is Codory Cabeza around 5800mnm, where is climbing on the rock and ice…
avsak co cert nechel tak pri vjazde do La Pazu bolo trak jasno ze Illimani bola ako keby vysvietena a si ziadala o Vranovsku smrst!!!
buuuuut, during entrance to the city the Illimani was sooooo highlighted from sun to we immediately thing just about how to get there….
po prichode sme sli do agency a opytali sa na vrchol ci mozme ist ze nemame skusenosti a tak….co bolo cool jaska ze agencia cumela na prachy a hned bolo vsetko jasne ze mame zelenu. Vecer do kostola sa pomodlit, lebo sme boli obaja brut nervozny, ze kde to vlastne ideme…
after arrival we found agency where we get a green light and in the same evening we get to church to pride because we get soo nervouse from all what happend in last 3h….
Den 1:
Day 1:
zraz o 9h a cakala nas 4h cesta s nadhernymi sceneriami … pod horu
meeting in 9h , and 4 h drive via cool scenneries to get under moutain…
neni to az tak daleko…heh…smiech? prejde!!!
it is not so far…heh…
Posledna dedinka je Pinaya 3500mnm…tam sme rozdelili vsetko co sme mali medzi nosicov, somarov a nas :))))
Last willage is Pinaya, 3500mnm . Upon arrival we splited up our stuff betwen porters, donkies and us..:))))
trek v prvy den bol skor taky rozohrievaci do 4500mnm do base campu..ako take zvykanie na trek vo vysokych vyskach…tempom ako na jarmoku medzi stankami sme zacali dupat hore….
the trekking in frost day it was like warming up and to get used to for trekking in high attitude….With a shopping tempo we did a trek to the 4500mnm to the base camp ...
v podvecer vsetko fajne jedlo a relax pred zajtrajsim 6h trekom do 5500mnm do vyzsieho campu….spoznavanie guidov atd…super zapad slnka v super nedotknutej prirode s krasnou orandzovou sceneriou Illimani…jasne ze potom nasledovala chladna noc a ani spacak do -20 velmi nehrial…:(((..takze noc bec spanku a prevalovacky …klasika :))))
in evening all good , good food and relax before next day 6h trek to highier camp 5500mnm. Recognizing with our guides, cook, …and so on…cool sunset in pure nature with view on the orange Illimani. Agfter sunset of course came a cold night where sleeping back up to -20 wasnt worm enough…so night without sleep and rolling left and right ..u know that..:))))
Den:2
Day:2
ani sme nemuseli vstavat, radsej sme vyliezli uz zo stanu pri svitani a po ranajkach a caji Mate de Coca ( mnam mnam )…sme startli na 6-7h trek do horneho campu …tak uz to bola prva skusenost s vysokou nadmorskou vyskou….castejsie pauzy a vydychavacky…. clovek sa tam citi velmi slaby a neciti svoje telo normalne….Nosici startovali asi hodinu po nas a asi v strede pri jednej pauze nas dobehli…Pri pohlade na nosicou sa mi tiskali slzy do oci…aka krasa a neskutocna liga…aha..
after not sleepy night and Mate de Coca we start our 6-7 h trek to highier camp. It was a first experience with high attitude trekking …more breaks for breth out…the body not working as usualy , feel week and useless.. The porters start 1h latter and they meet us somewhere in middle . To look on them i wanted to cy from purity and beautifullity…look:
otec porter ..asi 75 rokuof…s paradnym batohom
the daddy porter …cca 75 yer old…with cool backpack
vecsina porterov mala brutal spicove Garmonty:
most of the porters had a brutal expansive treking shoes Garmonts:
do horneho campu sme prisli asi o 3h poobede a pri pohlade na Illimany som si vravel ze to nieje moze sa tam dostat za jeden den…z dola hora vyzrala normalne ale pod nou clovek dostal respekt…po caji Coca :)))))) nasi guidi zistili ze nemam ani sajnu ako pouzit cepin a nozne hrable…som im vysletlil ze to nieje moja chyba , ze ma tu vyslali na technicku horu bez skusenosti..takze trosku nasraty po kapanek oddychu sme mali ako skolu na climbing, kde sme dostali zakladne praktiky a rady ako rozsekat horu…..
To the highier camp we arriver around 3 o`c and vit a view on Illimany i told my self it is imposible to climb there in 1 day…from the bottom looks like kidplaygraund but under peak we got realy big respect. After Coca tea :))))) our guides found out to i have no experience with climbing on ice …little bit angry and so on we got 1h first pratice on the ice and tips how to destroy moutain...
hore – dole….ksizem – ksazem
criss cross matrix – svina…
vecer este trosku relax a pred zapadom slnka do stanu skusit zaspat, lebo sa vstavalo 1:30..a hned po ranajkach sa vyrazalo..cca 2h rano…
in evening littlebit relax and before sunset went to tent to try to get sleep…because we woke up in 1:30 and in 2 o`c we start to trek.
Den:3
Day:3
Jasna vec ze nikto nespal…ja som sa citil ani neviem ako…bolela ma hlava a velmi som ani nechcel jest..( to su 2 z 3 priznakov vysokej nadmorskej vysky, tretia je nespavost..alebo blbe sny…:)))))) opytal som sa guida co a jak..ze co si mysli..on len sa zasmial a vravel ze som OK …tak ok..skusil som si dat babovky ..ale vela do mnaneslo asi jeden krajec a caj COCA:))))….brut ranajkach som siel hore…..ze co uz ked som tu…..:))))
Of course nobody slept….i felt strange , bad..headache and didnt ave appertise ( 2 of 3 admits of high attitude seeknes , the last one is insomnia or strange dreams…:)))))) i asked my guide what he think about me…he sad: u r ok…:))) ok so i tryed to go up..i eated just one peace of baba cake and coca tea:))))
Krok za krokom som sa ucil chodit na vyzdvyhnutom podvozku a celkom mi to slo..velmi som nemyslel ako mi je zle …skor som sa snazil drzat krok s guidom a nasledovat jeho slapaje…vsetko slo OK..az do vysky 6000mnm kde je taky zlom…z nicoho nic sa kopcok zdvyhne a pred vami je asi 60 stupnova stena dlha do nevidim…uz tak v 6000 je to masaker a som bol rad ze viem ako tak normalne chodit za guidom….nasledovalo stupanie s lanom a tak..no brut..ja borec som urobil dve fotky este ked som vladal…to bola chyba od tej doby som si prestal citit prsty a prave to bolo na tej stene kde som ich naj potreboval…prve lano ako tak som dal ale druhe uz som mnusl dat rukaffky dole a rozdychavat cierne prsty…( take som este nevidel ..riedne strach ) nemam foto z ciernych prstov lebo som vtedy nato az tak nemyslel…
Step by step i try to get better with crampons and so on…i didntthink so much about my seeknes and so just wanted to follow spets ogf my guide and be in tempo with him…all was good till 6000mnm where stoped us big 60 degree wall with end to not see…this part was climbing with a rope..me King of Egypt did a 2 fotos… and after that i didnt feel my hands any more…after firs rope i had to blow and warm up my black fingers….i have no photo of it , because i relay didnt think about it there….
asi po 7 lane sme sa dostali na taky ako zlom kde sme pokracovali oblukom az k zaverecnej vyjazdovej drahe….pri vystupe a pri odychu som sledoval nadherny vychod slnka ktory sa odrazal v jednom stite Central…
about after 7th rope we got into break point , where we continued to get into finnal way possition of Illimany….during climbing of this hudge neverending wall and breth breaks i was looking on beautifull sunrise from other side of moutains Central peak….
po asi 30 min obluku sme sa dostali na prvu vyhliadku a uz pod vrchol Illimany…vtedy uz som vedel ze to dokazem..uz len trebalo nabrat sily na zverecny 1h finnish ( 1,5h to bolo ) kedze mi bolo zle tak mi uplne stacil iba hryz zo snikersky …a aj to som premyslal ci to nevyblujem von…tak asi tam je …nechuti voda, nechuti snickers ,a boli hlava….
after cca 30 min of wolking around hill we got into place with a first mirrador of Illimany and other moutauins. In this time i knew to i gonna do it…just i needed the break for breath out and energy…as energy i just got i 1 bit of snickers…and even this i thought im going to through out…thats the suituation up there…headache, no teaste for food..even wather is bad…
Video:
posledna hodina….
1h to go….
Po prestavke sme pokracovali dalej ..uz len jedna hodina …
After break we continue up…just 1h more…
heh…:)))slnko svietilo…idealna hubacka… tralalalaaaa….po necelych 7h sme zdolali Illimany…6438mnm
heh…:))) tralalalaaaa…after not complet 7h we did it ..Illimani 6438mnm
video:
posledne kroky na Illimani
last few steps on Illimani
po pol hodke na vrcholu a zablahozelani k narodeninam kamaratovi Bosque ( Espana )sme mazali dolu…cesta bola brut , lebo vlastne kazdy vynalozi silu sa dostat hore a nemysli na cestu spet..ja som nato myslel ale co, ked tuzba je byt hore…ist dole bola asi najtazsia cast ….vystaveny a bez energie treba byt concentrovant na schadzanie a zlanovanie….prave v tejto chvili sa stava najviac nestasti,kedy ludia padaju ako hrusky…koly vycerpaniu a nesustredenosti…
After half our on peak and small birthday celebration we get down. The way was hard core because everybody will spend last energy to get up ther but not thinking about way down…but u know…evbdy think the same way…so without energy and exhausted u need be fully concentrated for descend…in this part happend the most accidents where not concentrated people falling down like pears…im not pear :))))
niekde v strede som vravel guidovi ze som uz celkom bez energie ze musime davat viac pauz…on mi nato: ale ved este musime zist az dole do dediny Pinaya…co je vlastne este dalsi trek z vyskjoveho campu…cize plus dalsie 6h a vyzskovo zo 6500 do 3500mnm….sokovany som to chcel mat cim skor zasebou…dal som posledny kus energie dojst do vyskoveho tabora…tam som nejedol lebo mi bolo zle..iba som spoteny lezal s paralenami v bruchu a snazil sa vypotit zlo….po pol hodke nasledoval 6h trek do dediny….tam sme dorazili o 17h…cize sa trekovalo od 2 rana do 17h vecera…a som pritom zjedol pol snickers..lebo viac do mna neslo ..modzogh vravel hej ale telo nie…cize na treti den sme trekovali od 2 do 17 – 15h trek , 10km, prevysenie 5500- 6500 a potom kles do 3500mnm
somewhere in the middle i told my guyide to im out of energy and i need more breaks…he told me : but aslo we going down to the willage …what is next 6h of trekking….shocked i wanted to have all done…so in last bit of energy i got down to highier camp…where i cdnt eat …i just lied down with a paralen pills and fever, and try to little bit breath out…after 30min we continue 6h trek down to willage… so in this day we treked from 2:am to 17:pm with attitude 5500-6500-and down to 3500mnm…total 10km , 15h trek..and as an energy i had just half snickers because brain sad yes, need it…bud body say no!!!
V dedine nas cakala zasluzena odmena…:))))
in the willage was waiting for us the best price:)))))
a po nej fajne local jedlo…som to nazval “Nedovarena shwina v lavore, s bandurkami aj s dachim :)))))”…kazdy to zral ako v praveku…
and after that cool local food “Pig in the bucket con potatos and something else”…:))) everybody eated that as animal…
po fajnej veceri sme skoncili u Gudia dome s piffcom ( mali by ste vidiet tu skromnost )…a kecali do neskoreho vecera….Na dalsi den rano sme zbalili stany z futbaloveho stadiona Pinaya..s hladiskom pre 3 osoby , 6 oviec,3 koni , 2 somarov a 7 krav..a sli spet do La Pazu cez nadhernu sceneriu prirody…
after yummy dinner we finnished up in the Guide house ( u shd to see this pority and purity ) ..and talked to the late night…the nbext day we packed up our tents from futball stadium of Pinaya with audince for 3 people, 6 ships, 3 horsies,2 donkies and 7 cows….and went back to Lapaz via beautiful scenery of nature…
a rozbita Illimany Michalom Rovnakom z Vranova nad Toplou, 2.7.2010
and the destroyed Illimany by Michal Rovnak from Vranov nad Toplou, 2.7.2010
thanks for all….sooooooo coool trek..one of the best moment in my life….
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